1. The first step is to determine the size or area of the patio with a square foot. This will affect the assessment of materials needed later. Mark the area with a can of white paint for spraying, slightly larger, to provide stopper edges and base stops at the edges of the courtyard.
2. Evaluate the necessary materials, select the desired paving stones. Most asphalt pavers and concrete dealers will let you know how many per square feet for them. Also estimate base material and sand, approximately 1 1/2 yards of gravel (3/4 "quarry process) per 100 square feet, this will support a 4" compacted foundation. Sand - fine sand from a bricklayer, about 1/4 the amount of gravel base should be plenty. Having more is always better than not having enough base material.
3. Digging and preparation for a good paver base is important and will be the most time consuming process. Excavation with a spade or loader, if available, use local digging laws to avoid using hidden cable. Make the base 6 "-8" below the desired height of the inner courtyard, and the paving stones will take 2 ", so the base of gravel under the pavement will be 4" - 6. "If possible, use a landscape fabric under gravel to better support and protect the base. In some areas require a base of defects due to poor soil or recent disturbed soil from a new home.
4. Evaluate the base of the patio using the 2X4 to get a flat and sloping base for water flow. tilt soon to the required mileage, use a quarter-bubble technique at 4 feet, make sure the sloping is the right way. Large patios may require 2 2X4, so they will need to manage together. If your patio is near a concrete road or it is bordered by concrete or timbers, then use a modified 2X 4 to evaluate along this border (see Figure on the left). Take the time to gain a level, and reevaluate after the completion of compaction (the next step).
5. Use a flat compactor or similar compact device to get a good base for pavers. If the gravel is too dry, flush it with a garden hose so that it packs better. Estimate the additional time after each compaction to complete.
6. Thin stone sandstone grade, as before, this assessment was carried out earlier; this final class aligns the coarse gravel class and provides a good even basis for asphalt pavers. It is only a quarter of an inch or less of a layer of sand to maintain a proper level, rather than an inch of sand, as you may have heard, remember that the proper level and slope have already been done with simple work with a gravel base.
7. Put the paving stones in the desired pattern, as samples of the drawings look at the resource page, remove the paving stones as much as possible, start from the base or at home to get the best look. Keep in mind that paving stones should be cut with a saw blade and a diamond paver if the patio area has curves or obstacles. A simple square patio may not need cutting. cut into paving stones, use measuring equipment or measure with a stacker in place and label.
8. Finally, use a plastic edge guard and secure with spikes about 2 or less for greater strength. Then smooth out the same stone mason, the better, it will go into the cracks and become a dry mortar, so to speak, and remove the paving stones. A sand dryer, the easier it will be to sweep. Use a compactor to pack the patio and let the sand fall into the cracks. I would advise you to put cardboard or fabric under the compactor, so as not to damage the pavers and stop the vibration noise too, I lay the cardboard box on the bottom of the compactor, but after a few times the cardboard will wear, but will work for one to use. Sweep the sand more until there is more sand. And the last thing you would need to fill the black dirt around the edge, to support and landscape at your request, grass seed or stone (this covers the plastic edge).
