Imagine that you are driving in the desert, and suddenly you hear a noise coming from your car, which you have never heard of. “What is that noise?” You ask yourself again and again, or “Do I hear it or imagine?” Then you are faced with whether to continue to the nearest service station or stop the car to prevent further damage. Without the proper knowledge to make this important decision, drivers can face a lot of stress at a very awkward time.
One of the things that most car owners do not understand is that cars, such as people, can have a lot of problems with them. In addition, they produce many different types of sounds, work well or not so well! The owner of an informed car can make the best decision about whether to seek help from an automated expert using simple diagnostic tests, using simple tools (or even without tools) and a little knowledge to help them with this decision, giving them peace of mind along the way. In this article, I hope to offer you an understanding of some of this knowledge. After reading, you might think at a simpler level when dealing with the problems of your car.
Cars have the potential to create a wide range of sounds: clicks, ticks, pings, hits and pops. Some are more serious than others. If this noise turns you into a batty and you are not close to the mechanic, gently pull the car aside, taking all precautions into account. While still in the car and on the car, listen to the fact that your car is still noisy. If so, the sound is most likely connected to the engine in some way. If not, then most likely the rest of the car. In any case, we isolated noise into two important areas, moving or not moving.
Suppose we still hear the noise with the machine, but still. We can further isolate noise by simply walking the vehicle once or twice, listening to the sound, and where you can hear it louder or more often.
Despite the fact that in most cars the engine is located in the front of the car, the engine exhaust moves the length of the vehicle as far as possible from this system, noise may occur due to a defect or vibration. The further in the rear you find the noise, the less serious the problem. The general rule of thumb for today's front-wheel drive cars is any noise from the driver’s door to the back of the car (while the car is stationary) will not prevent you from driving to a service station or home.
The sounds you could expect to come from exhaust gases that have holes or cracks flowing from exhaust gases somewhere through the system will sound both low and high at the same time, sounding like a drum drum with a slight beat at the same time. in a repeated pulse (due to the opening and closing of the exhaust valves in the engine). If you looked under the car where the leak leaked, it would be more pronounced. You can go home, but fix it. Exhaust leaks are only getting worse and can reduce the efficiency and performance of your car, depending on the location of the leak.
If the noise is still in this area, but it is rather random noise using pinging, clang or pop, then this may not be a leak. Clangs and pings are often associated with cooling or cooling banks that run along the exhaust system, and between it and the floor of the car, so as not to heat these parts of the car. They can only ping from increasing / decreasing temperature, but loose tin will also ping and / or strike. Again, this is not an emergency, but not something that cannot be left to further deterioration if you can help her. The sound of the sound from the exhaust pipe of your car is a signal that something is wrong with the engine. This may mean that the car needs adjustment; the sensor may not work properly, etc. Most of this is insignificant, and you can survive the drive at the service station, but again, do not ignore anything. Improper storage of your engine for a long time can damage components of your engine, which can lead to significant repair costs.
So let me say that the sound behind the front doors is reduced, and it looks the most pleasant in relation to the front. You moved and tried to determine on which side of the car, and when the noise came from the front of the car or more on the windshield. Most front-wheel drive vehicles have engine belts and pulleys on the passenger side of the car with a transmission / transmission on the driver’s side. Knowing this, you should hear more noise on the passenger side even in a new car, but this is the sound you are looking for.
With all this noise coming from such a crowded area, what can you do to secure it? First, be safe and absolutely sure that you do not have hair, jewelry or clothes hanging in the engine compartment while working, fears are real when working with belts and pulleys, which are usually not well covered! After you are convinced that it is clear to you that you are watching, listen carefully while moving through the engine compartment.
Still having problems with its fixation? You have a newspaper folder; maybe you have a funnel in the trunk? Perhaps you get an idea ... something that you can knock over to make a cone or megaphone shape. This will greatly improve the listening device. By pointing a wide opening to the area of the sound and listening at the small end, your ear will lead you to the coarse area of the sound. Once you find it, you can flip the megaphone and trace the entire range of approximately a certain area, with a small hole, to indicate the component or location of the intruder. It will bring you great satisfaction if you do not yet know what is happening with your car. It would also help a mechanic very much in confirming the problem, so you could save yourself a big repair bill and give you peace of mind.
From under the hood, various sounds may appear, some of which are listed below. Keep the list with you in your glovebox so you can refer to them:
-Change. As a rule, a low amount of oil can lead to a permanent tick, a tick and a quick removal. - Location: this noise is usually located on the top of the engine without your V-6 or V8 engine, and in this case, it will be the front or rear of the engine. Rear-wheel drive trucks and cars with V-type engines will have noise left and right. Diagnosis and prognosis: Check the oil level and replace the lost one if it is low. If it persists, contact a service technician. The actual ticking sound is due to a lack of lubrication on the lift / valve stem, rocker arms, pushers (if any) and camshaft, which causes a slight delay in spring return or actual movement of the pusher, resulting in a small contact gap of several of these components making them touch each other. Other sources of "ticks": normal operation of the air conditioner compressor (random tick or cotton); Rubbish in the electric fan, clean up the garbage with the motor and fan (allow to cool before cleaning); Exhaust leaks on the engine, seek professional help, but you are fine to drive.
-Squealing - Engine belts are considered wear. This is due to the fact that they are tied to moving components (pulleys) and over time experience a significant amount of friction. They also dry out and crack when used heavily or are left on the elements, especially in dry conditions such as Arizona. Location: the passenger side of the engine compartment on FWD cars and the front of the engine compartment on cars and RWD trucks. Diagnosis and prognosis: It is more difficult to point out a small point with the help of a self-made megaphone. Turn off the machine and see if there are any cracks in the belt (s) ... you can check by pressing the belt and distorting the cracks when it is bent. If you see cracks with or without this action, you should immediately schedule a replacement. After confirmation, go to an appointment with a service technician. An unusually dry belt may squeal for no other reason; for this you can buy a mudguard for dressing belts to soften the noise. This helps give the belt a better grip. Other sources from wells: or noise reduction is the fluid level in the low-power steering pump, checking and filling as needed, PS pumps can fail and cause a lot of noise. Look for a professional if you think this is the reason; Water pumps have a bearing that can be worn and squealed, look for a professional; Independent pulley or wheel bearing, consult a professional.
-Pinging and knocking - this may have several sources, but usually relates to your ignition and fuel system. This can be as simple as the quality of the fuel you pump into a tank or an engine that needs tuning, sometimes called pre-ignition. This can be due to poor maintenance schedules or filling in the wrong fuel station. Diagnosis and prognosis: Start by refueling elsewhere. If the problem is not resolved, make an appointment to adjust (new spark plugs, air filters, etc.) and start the fuel tank for fuel injection through the engine. In most cases this will clarify the situation. Other sources of ping and / or knocking: Poorly functioning EGR or computer sensors, looking for a professional. Sometimes the sound of the ringing in the engine can not be sharpened, and it can be the connecting rod bearings. This is important and should be seen by a professional before serious damage to your engine.
-Gurgling - 99 times out of 100, this is due to the fact that the cooling system is not doing its job. A boiling coolant could hear from the coolant reservoir and even through hoses. Diagnosis and prognosis: Be safe; NEVER remove the radiator cap or reservoir cap when the engine is hot. Allow the engine to cool and check the manifold level indicator to give you an idea of whether you need coolant. Add as needed. If there seems to be a lot, then there is a high probability that your thermostat will not work properly. One of the obvious signs of this is that your heater may not heat up as before, or maybe not at all. An inoperative electric fan with heavy traffic can also cause a rise in temperature. If necessary, consult a specialist for any of these repairs.
Are there other areas of strange noise? Absolutely, you might hear sounds when you turn on the heater fan. The mouse could hide some debris in the ventilation ducts of your car. You may hear a squelch that may be a fan slipping belt, possibly due to a bad bearing attached to a blower / motor. And while we are in the car, you may hear noise when you drive, it could be something simple, like a slightly open door or an open window just a touch.
If the noise is heard only while the car or truck is moving, you can deal with the suspension or steering abnormalities (chunks, cans and butts), or perhaps issues like bearings (grinding and vibration). The brakes will also emit a lot of noise when they go bad (screech = built-in cushion wear indicator) are already bad (grinding when applying brakes = cushion level, significant with metal contact), but also if new (weak squeak or screeching when the vehicle is in motion = metal / semimetal brake pads are guilty of this and are the result of a small burr or fragment hanging from gaskets wiping on the brake rotor is normal and not considered alarming. However, as with th noise you have any doubts, contact a professional for advice, especially when it comes to brakes, steering and suspension.
Although there is a lot of noise that a car can make throughout its life, we hope that this will give you an idea of some of them and help you decide whether you should continue your journey to the store or during the day to work.
