Naturally, neither about training, nor about a horse. We need help in teaching our horses our language, as the school teacher needs books, boards, and sometimes rulers to train his students. I constantly tell people, yes, some equipment is enough to never be used, but in the right hands, even the softest halter can be a torture for a horse. On the other hand, properly used equipment can help a child learn a lesson faster and easier, thereby reducing the load on the horse’s body and humor. Considering equipment for training, I consider these aspects to determine if the equipment I use is suitable for me and the horse. The surface is covered with a coating or skin contact, the design of the surface of the equipment that touches the skin and the motivation required for a particular lesson. So let's see what distinguishes bits, spurs, and whips.
When you're looking for a little, the best place to start is to imagine what it will look like at the soft corners of your mouth and tongue. You can also hold the bit in your hand, as it would at the mouth of a horse, and feel what happens when you apply pressure. Test both when the horse's face is in the correct position, vertically to the ground, and also when the horse can lift his head and level his mouth more parallel to the ground. In general, a softer bit has a smooth, thick mouthpiece; large rings or jaw pieces on snaffle bits; short shanks and low ports on curb bits; wide nose and short shanks on the mechanical hakkamore; a thick nose piece and large knots on the bosal.
Knowing how each type of bit works and the motivation it uses are also important. Snaffle is intended for use with direct or direct drive and should encourage lateral bending of horses. neck and is known for the broken part of the mouth and rings that allow the reins to attach directly to the side of the mouth. There is a direct pressure relationship that is applied directly to the mouth. If you pull on a halter with five kilograms of pressure, the horse gives up five pounds of pressure. The smaller the rings, the heavier, as the pressure from this attraction on the reins becomes more concentrated in a smaller place on the opposite side of the horse's mouth. This is what makes the whole cheek very small.
Border, balsal and hakamor work with the horse straight and encourage the horse to carry its head in an upright position. based on levers with different pressure ratios that apply to bars, chins, and horse surveys. The longer the shank and the shorter the buyer, the greater the ratio. For example, a bit with a narrow narrow ring of one inch in length and a six-inch shank has a ratio of one to six. When you apply five pounds of pressure on the reins, 30 pounds of pressure is applied to the chin, bar, and pitch. For the curve you also have a chin. The thinner the belt, the less it suffers because it spreads pressure over a larger area. Rusty chin chain belts are illegal in the show ring, as they can cut a horse's chin. The growth of a port or center of bits increases in severity, the more. When you apply the reins, the port is activated, rising to the roof of the horse. While the Mullen mouthpiece looks less harsh, it can be more severe depending on the horse, as it applies full pressure to the tongue when the edge is applied, while the low port can hold the bit away from the tongue.
An incomparable bridle includes bosal, hakamora and halter diapers. The thinner the bozal, the greater the seriousness, since again the pressure is applied to a smaller area on the face and under the chin and, therefore, more concentrated. Bosal knots can damage the sides of a horse’s face if they run down too much. Not many will choose bosal as a bridle, as it does not have a bite that can be used without good training on a horse. One of my least favorite bit-less head restraints is the mechanical hakamor. It is naive, many believe that it is the least severe. However, they come in a variety of styles, including cable wires and bicycle chains for the bow. In combination with the commonly used 9-inch shank, they can easily apply 90 plus a pound of pressure on the nose, chin and poll of the horse. A young rider can unconsciously and easily break a horse. And while it looks so “natural” to ride a horse without help, think about how long you must learn horse lessons in order to gain control. Yes, a small bridle can be something that you think is working, but not as an educational tool or a starting place. Also think about your cues and how a small bridle will contact your horse. Whether this will cause your cues to be vague and, therefore, confusing the horse, or provide a clear connection that allows your horse to fully understand your requests.
Now you can better understand what I say about spurs. Try them on your own foot. Take a spur and throw it over your skin and feel how harsh it will or will not be for your horse. Spurs, like the tail bit, when properly used were designed to give clear and precise signals, and then it can be easier. We found that they are excellent motivators for promoting the lesson and, as with bats, when some equipment uses pain as a motivator, we stop communicating with our horse. The horse begins to defend and respond, rather than respond to our requests. If the horse can feel the fly walking on its side, you do not need a sharp blow to the heel to feel the leg. Horses do not become dead or dead, they simply increase their pain threshold to cope with the pain used for training.
But, returning to the spurs, it seems obvious that the larger the area that the spur touches, the smoother the surface of the spur, the less severe it is. Now here's a kicker. When we look at the choice of a spur, we naturally shy away from a large rower covered with 20 points, when in fact this spur is less severe than a smaller comb with six points. What for? For the simple reason mentioned above. A large roller with lots of dots actually covers a large area of skin and does not poke a horse like a small 6-point comb. Some other aspects to consider with spurs are the sides of the rowers, they are beveled smooth so as not to break a horse, and they roll freely enough so that if you get sand in them, it can fail without locking your comb.
Humane & quot; Spurs at first glance, a bumper or a barrel, look good until you remember that the surface is the key. These spurs do not have a ridge, but they are thin, so it concentrates to a small area. Buffy gum sees the least serious when it is used to refine a cue, and not to replace good preparation. However, a good coarse comb could be said to be less serious because, when used correctly, the comb allows the spur to turn the side of the horse, where, when the bumper is, the bubble gum wave and even the English spur will pull up the sides of the horse. It is important to remember about spurs - this is an extra help, like a harvest. The horse will stop listening to all spurs when it becomes the first and main replica.
Whips should be used as an extension of your hand, and not as a stick to defeat your horse. The whip should only be used to reach the horse in such a way as to keep you in a safe place during your workout. There are horses that need strong motivation, but a horse should no longer be afraid of the whip than it is to be afraid of or your hand. Again, size does matter. The thicker the whip or the bit, the less strong the whip. When working on the ground, the whip should have a solid shaft that doesn’t care when you touch a horse. The reason is that if you need to stop pushing or increase pressure, the flexible whip will react badly. It will tend to bite the horse too much and hit the horse when you don’t want it. Use the size of the whip that matches the situation. If you need to touch the thigh, you will need a longer whip than usual that is used in the saddle. And just like a spur, a whip should not become the main cue. It is intended to be used as a secondary label. This means that you use the whip when the horse does not respond to the best primary physical signal, and the whip should be left as soon as the horse gives the correct answer.
In my opinion, you need the best equipment for the job. Although you could literally put your bare hands in a flower garden, I think we all agree that the work would be much faster, with less pain with our hands, back, legs and mind, if we used a shovel. In the same way, we must take into account how strongly the horse's body is strained through useless repetition. Sometimes a soft snaffle is the best choice to teach a lesson more clearly, accurately and quickly than a halter. And while the use of bits, spur and whip can and will be discussed until the end of time, it helps to get an education on their design, proper use and advantages, so that you can make the right choice. Most of them were designed with the full intention of making the signals clearer, and the horse could learn how to work with easier assistants. It was human laziness that turned them into inhuman educational devices. And while most agreed that it would be great to ride full freedom on our horses and get them to respond without fail, this goal is not a starting point, and if used correctly, these tools can help us on this journey.
